February 1st – EL CEDRO – PLAYA LIMON
Andrea and I decide to reach this area, on our way to Samana, because the Lonely Planet says here is one of the most beautiful beaches in the country.
Bus from Bavaro to Higuey (60 DOP), another 60 DOP for a crowded gua-gua up to El Cedro, (four houses on a cross road). From there, the guide says, a dirt road leads to our destination, after a few kilometers. We accept willingly the lift offered to us by a pick up. Luckily there is Andrea. If I had been alone I would not have trusted to accept the lift, and I would had to plod under the sun. We are led to Rancho la Cueva, a hotel in the middle of a palm grove, not directly on the sea. Around us there are only various types of horses, lush nature, and immense silence. The hotel, run by a Swiss, (and I would say that it could not be otherwise, given the cleanliness and the surrounding order), is a destination for hikers who stop for lunch, and then continue riding horses towards the beach and lagoon, but during our short stay we will not see other guests. My room is on the top floor, it is simple but nice and clean, with a nice view. It costs $ 40, including dinner.
I just settle my things in the room, then I wanto to go with Andrea, to see the beach.
I ask for direction to the owner, who gives us rather confused information, like “just follow the path, you can’t be wrong” Yes… but it’s my first time here, I can’t see any path, what if I get lost? He cuts short “te acompañarà el perro” … ??? … Tsk, I really want to see this …. The perro, a kind of meek reddish pittbull, with a gaze which looks smarter and more vital than many humans, as if it was remote controlled, starts to trot, we follow him, still doubtful. And instead … he really brings us at destination, and stays with us all the time !! Really a lovely dog, it’s clear he is used to take around the tourists !!
So, we are now to this much-vaunted famous beach. It is really wonderful, but not in the way I expected. The sand is golden, not as white as in Bavaro and Saona The sea is ruffled by the wind, it quickly becomes deep, and the waves are high and dangerous. It is certainly not easy to swim! The bay is huge, it will be 3 or 4 kilometers, and it is completely deserted.
Stunning. We start walking in a random direction, coincidentally the right one, which brings us next to the lagoon, with brown waters
Some kiosk sell refreshments, but are now closed. After some time a group riding horses arrives, and immediately disappears through the vegetation.
In short, a fairy tale. The dog continues to escort us, we bring him with us even in the evening, when we get back to the beach to see it under the full moon light. A charm. A magic.
Too bad we can stop only one night, because it is that kind of place where you can stop just enough to forget the rest of the world.
Among other things, later, I will hear some gossips about the hotel owner, who had troubles in his country of origin, they say because of a murder, and so he is condemned to never return. In any case, true or not, he confessed me that he does not regret anything about Switzerland